ELEPHANT GARLIC

Despite the fact that it’s getting hot here (as in I don’t want to go outside hot), the farmers market has been bustling the past two weeks.  One reason is that peaches are in season.  Folks line up for these early, and they sell out quickly (although personally, I think they still need another week or two):

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The variety of tomatoes making their brief appearance is another draw:

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Along with big bunches of basil to pair with them:

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Squash (and squash blossoms) are abundant:

004 (2)I love the bundles of Bright Lights swiss chard.  I call them the Electric Chard Orchestra:

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One of my favorite vendors this time of year is Billabong Fresh Flower Farm, with its colorful seasonal flowers:

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I couldn’t resist these cute little 2″ baby eggplants:

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Or this mutant white carrot:

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The thing that intrigued me most this week, however, was giant stalks of elephant garlic:

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They were in bloom, and the grower referred to the flower stalks as scapes (a leafless stalk in plants that arises from a rosette of leaves and bears one or more flowers), although I’m not really sure they’re considered scapes once they’ve bloomed.  I think they’re just called flowers at that point:

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She told me that the local chefs like the flower heads because you can cook the flowers and they hold their shape.  She also told me that she used to trim the roots, but the chefs asked her to leave them on because they fry them up and use them as garnish:

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According to the grower, I could cook with every part of the garlic plant.  Well, that was a throwdown, if ever I heard one.  So I went home with my big ass garlic and proceeded to cook with every part of it.  The chefs she referred to must have magical powers.  The stalk part, which I have seen referred to as tasting similar to asparagus, was as tough as a twig — inedible, really.  The flowers did hold their shape pretty well, but their little teeny tiny stems looked like hair in my saute.  I’m guessing they’re probably better uncooked as a garnish.   I was so excited to fry up the roots to use as a crunchy garnish, only to discover that they tasted exactly like the dirt they grew in.

The garlic bulb, however, was wonderful.  I chopped it and sauteed it in olive oil, with a pinch of salt and pepper.  It became soft (but not mushy) and sweet without the bite of regular garlic.  I used it, and some of those nice tomatoes and basil, to make a pizza.  (If you are wondering why the cheese on my pizza is so browned, it’s because that is how my husband prefers it.)  If you see fresh elephant garlic, give it a try!

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NEW ORLEANS CRAB SOUP

 

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I found this brass turtle lemon grater at a local estate sale.

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Unfortunately, the grating holes are too dull to grate, after what I assume is years of use.  But it is still a wonderful decorative item.  It is especially interesting to me because it came from the estate of Suneeta Vaswani.  Suneeta moved to Houston from Mumbai 30 years ago, and has taught Indian cooking classes here for quite some time.  She has a  cookbook, The Complete Book of Indian Cooking:  350 Recipes from the Regions of India, which has lots of fans.

Speaking of turtles, do you remember those cute little fellas in the plastic dish with the palm tree?

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Once upon a time, these were popular pets for children.  Parents liked them because they were low maintenance, and if the turtle happened to die, chances are no one would notice for a while.  Unfortunately, my kids never got to experience the joy of owning a little turtle.  Seems that snuggling up to one of these cuddly cuties is like playing Russian roulette, because you never know if an encounter with one might result in a deadly salmonella infection.  According to the Center for Disease Control, the sale of turtles under 4 inches has been banned in the U.S. since 1975 because of the risk of salmonella.  (I expect to see these on Facebook soon — you know, “Click ‘like’ if you remember these,” just like rotary phones and the Brady Bunch.)

When I first moved to Houston, I was introduced to Turtle Soup at Brennan’s.  I thought it was a joke at first.  Really, Turtle Soup?  But it wasn’t a joke, and it was delicious.  According to one of the chefs at Brennan’s, Turtle Soup is “unquestionably the most popular dish” at the restaurant.  He says they make it in 35-gallon batches “in pots the size of small bathtubs.”  He also says that the restaurant only uses fresh water turtles, such as the snapping turtle.  That’s a relief —  I can’t imagine how many little turtles they’d have to use to make a batch of soup.

Inspired by the turtle grater, I set out to make Brennan’s Turtle Soup, except that I had no idea where to buy turtle meat, and even if I did, I wouldn’t.  The Brennan’s chef said you could substitute ground beef or a combination of ground beef and ground veal in chili grind, but I decided to use crab instead.  The recipe I adapted this from came from the New Orleans Turtle Soup recipe in the Breakfast at Brennan’s cookbook (it’s different than the Brennan’s Turtle Soup recipes I found on the internet).  It makes a really nice meal this time of year (it was 35 degrees here in Houston when I took my son to school this morning).  If you want to stretch it — because after all, crab is expensive — you can serve it over white rice.  Don’t forget the drizzle of sherry!

5 from 1 reviews
NEW ORLEANS CRAB SOUP
Author: 
Recipe type: Soup
 
Ingredients
  • ½ cup butter
  • ½ cup diced onion
  • ½ cup diced celery
  • ½ cup diced green pepper
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 6-ounce can tomato paste
  • ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 bay leaves
  • ½ cup flour
  • ½ cup corn meal
  • 2 quarts chicken broth
  • 1 pound lump crab meat
  • Optional for serving:
  • Cooked white rice
  • Sliced lemons
  • Dry sherry
  • Tabasco sauce
  • Chopped green onions
Instructions
  1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, green pepper, garlic, parsley, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, paprika, salt, and bay leaves. Cook the mixture until the vegetables are very tender, stirring frequently. Stir in the flour and corn meal, and continue cooking until they have absorbed all of the butter. Slowly whisk the broth into the pot and bring to a boil. Add the crab meat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.
  2. To serve, place approximately ¼ cup white rice (if using) in individual soup bowls. Drizzle with a teaspoon of sherry (if using). Pass lemons, Tabasco sauce, and green onions at the table for use as desired.

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 Look Mom, no turtles!