SUMMER VACATION IN TELLURIDE

This summer the vacation gods smiled upon us.  We had a great vacation in Telluride, Colorado (elev. 8,750′) with both kids and their plus ones that included gorgeous lodging and perfect weather.

We stayed at Slopeside Lodge in Mountain Village (elev. 9,547′), easily the nicest place we’ve ever stayed on vacation.  When I say this house was gorgeous, I am not exaggerating.  Beautiful furnishings, stunning scenery, well-equipped kitchen — it was wonderful.  Just to give you an idea, here’s a few photos (borrowed from the rental company’s website):

We never tired of soaking in the view:

It was easy to go back and forth between Mountain Village and Telluride, using the free gondolas that connect the two towns:

Wildflowers had popped into bloom everywhere:

As well as a variety of unusual fungi:

Hiking is, of course, a popular activity, and there are loads of trails to choose from.  My husband’s favorite was the Hope Lake Trail, with its beautiful mountain lake:

 

Our favorite adventure in Telluride, and the one we’ll be talking about for a long time, was the harrowing 4-wheel drive to Imogene Pass and Tomboy Ghost Town with Telluride Outside.

The “road” was barely wide enough for one vehicle, and on one side of the road was mountain, and the other side of the road was the drop off of the mountain.  If you’re afraid of heights, this is probably not for you.  As we bounced along, I wasn’t sure it was worth the expense and anxiety, but as we neared the top, the mining town remains were interesting:

And the sweeping views were stunning:

Wow.

We also enjoyed some great meals in Telluride, including tasty Thai food at Siam:

Decadent Detroit-style pizza at Brown Dog Pizza:

The awarding-winning 3-1-3 and the Brooklyn Bridge:

Check out that cheese pull!

Not in the mood for that much deliciousness?  Try a slice of the New York-style pizza with cupping pepperoni:

We had a nice dinner at Allred’s, which is located at one of the gondola stops:

The lodge-like dining room has mountain views, and is a lovely place to watch the sunset:We enjoyed our selections from the upscale menu, including an appetizer of wagyu beef carpaccio:

And entrees of wild-caught Alaskan halibut, Angus beef tenderloin, and veal scallopine (buried under a mountain of arugula):

We were lucky to get dinner reservations at The National, a buzzy new restaurant in Telluride that we flipped over:

We started with excellent beef tenderloin carpaccio (and also a creamy and delicious vegan corn chowder):

And we finished every bite of our entrees, which included:

Beef Tenderloin Fillet, Bone Marrow, Potato Napoleon, Garlic Scapes, Truffle Bordelaise

and

Grilled Garden Vegetable Vegan Lasagna, Puttanesca Sauce, Basil Pesto

My photo doesn’t do justice to the vegan lasagna, which I can’t get out of my head.  I have never had a vegan dish like this — I’m sure there was magic involved.

Our Telluride vacation was the best family vacation we’ve had in a long time.  Thank you, vacation gods.  🙂

COLORADO GETAWAY

Last week we traveled to Colorado, spending two nights in Denver before heading to a securities law conference in Avon.  We were looking forward to a break from the Texas heat, but as is so often the case for us, it was as hot in Denver as it was in Houston.

Vacation fail

In Denver, we stayed at the Hotel Born.  It had the hip vibe that Kimptom Hotels do so well (have to keep telling myself it’s hip to be square), including a cozy lobby, whimsical art, and attractive and comfortable room:

The hotel was located just steps away from the historic Union Station (est. 1881), which was beautifully renovated in 2012:

We spent the better part of a day at the Denver Botanic Gardens:The spectacular botanic garden is huge — set on 24 acres — and features Gardens of the West, Internationally Inspired Gardens, Ornamental Gardens, Shady Gardens, and Water Gardens:

The Denver Rose Society was holding its annual Rose Show at the garden — so many beautiful roses and interesting presentations, along with very serious rose enthusiasts:

I know you can’t wait to find out which rose won Best of Show.  Well, here you go:
We shared a light bite at the garden’s Offshoots Cafe (one of two restaurants at the garden) — a salad of broccoli, cauliflower, pepitas, and currants, hibiscus tea, and of course, a flower cookie:

We also visited the Denver Art Museum:

Although the permanent collections were closed due to renovations, there were interesting exhibitions, including works by Jeffrey Gibson:

And Animals in Art:

We were fascinated by an exhibition of members of the Rocky Mountain Lace Guild, who enthusiastically demonstrated their craft (I don’t know anyone that makes lace, do you?):This woman hand-decorated her bobbins, each one a little work of art:We had some great meals in Denver.  The first was dinner at Rioja (James Beard Foundation Best Chef Southwest 2013), a Mediterranean restaurant in downtown Denver:

We enjoyed appetizers of kampachi tiradito (with pickled mushroom, fresno chile, carrot, salsa verde, soy-lavender ponzu, and coriander crisps) and roasted beets with (blood orange, black sesame tahini, sweet potato, and mustard greens):

Entrees of artichoke tortellini (with artichoke mousse, white truffle brodo, queso de Mano, and chervil) and whiskey-brined pork chop (with savory eclair, porcine pastry cream, fava beans, lemon confit, whiskey demi, and sorrel puree):

And a wonderful lemon yuzu tart (with lemon yuzu sabayon, sweet cornmeal sucre, pine nut brittle ice cream, and lemon confit) for dessert:We had a great brunch at Wendell’s, a recently-opened contemporary diner in the Berkeley neighborhood:

Sipping a Bloody Mary on the cheery patio was a great way to start the day.  Blueberry scone didn’t hurt either:

Followed by seeded toast No. 4 (with avocado, pickled beets, and herbed ricotta), and the New York Deli Benedict (with poached egg, smoked lox, tomato, red onion, fried capers, citrus hollandaise, bagel, and mixed greens), both of which were delicious:

But the thing that really wowed us was a simple brûléed half grapefruit, with its crackle of brown sugar and sweet juices.  You can’t really see it in the photo, but it was served with a grapefruit spoon, something I haven’t seen since I was a kid, complete with pointy tip and serrated sides, and now can’t live without:

We also had a wonderful meal at Mercantile at Union Station.

This dinner was special because my friend Karen and her husband Mark joined us.  Karen is an award-winning home cook, and as one of the first people to follow my blog she holds a special place in my heart.  We chatted over, among other things, Market Provisions, beef tartare, heirloom tomato salad, pan-roasted barramundi, and chermoula roasted brassicas (forgive the pictures, which do not do justice to the food):

Before leaving Denver we grabbed lunch at the Denver Milk Market, a slick-looking food hall with 16 different concepts (i.e., something for everyone):

It was hard to pick from the 16, but we finally settled on poke and really tasty bao:

We hit the road for Avon for the conference, which was held at the beautiful Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch:

Breakfast and lunch buffets at the hotel were served outdoors, something we won’t be enjoying in Houston for many months:

The conference organizers arranged for a wide variety of activities for the attendees and their families, including a bumpy, dusty jeep ride to view alpine wildflowers:

One of the dinners was held in a rustic setting at 4 Eagle Ranch:

Before dinner, we learned about falcons and eagles:

Another dinner was held at the mountaintop Spruce Saddle Lodge in nearby Beaver Creek, and involved a long tram ride to get there (thank goodness they didn’t make us ride a chairlift up):

The conference organizers provided a wonderful Colorado experience for us, and the time spent there was relaxing and enjoyable.  We met some really nice people, and heard some great war stories.  After all the great meals in Denver, however, the banquet food paled in comparison (which is just an observation, not a complaint).  It was hard to think about leaving the cool Colorado weather knowing the heat and humidity (and flooding) we were returning to, but knowing what was waiting for us at home made it easier.

We missed Jasper and Maisy like crazy.